Toiling Jia Li Dress....

Here's how I made the toile for my first dress. I won't be showing you about how I created the pattern because it'll be just too boring so here's how it went.

• I cut out all the pattens in calico.

• Then I took the centre front panel and one of the front side panel and I sew them together with 1.5cm seam allowance. I did the same on the other side.

• Then I knotch the curve seam to give ease and then I pressed it open.

• I then moved onto the back panels, I sew the back side panel and centre back panel together with 1.5cm seam allowance. I pressed the seams open then did that same on the other side.

• I then sewn in the concealed zip before sewing the centre back together with 1.5cm seam allowance.

• Then I sewn the shoulder seam together with 1.5cm seam allowance and press the seam open. I did the same on the other side.

• Then I sewn the side seams together with 1.5cm seam allowance and press it open. I did the same on the other side.

• I then fitted the dress on the mannequin and decided how bid the cut out circle is going to be on the stomach. I drew out the shape that I wanted on one half, once I was happy with the shape I cut it out half way and folded it to the other side to get the same shape. (clever huh ^_^)

• Then I bias bind the edges. You can buy bias binding that are already made in fabric shops but I didn't have any so I had created my own bias binding from calico.

• The bias binding wasn't laying flat where it curves on the back side panel because the binding is a little thick in width so I have to resolve this problem by reducing the with of the binding.

• I then attach facings on the neck and on one of the arm because it's a toile I don't need to add facings on both arm.

Creating the shoulder feature.

• I drew out the shape that I want on paper, then once I'm satisfied with the shape I cut it out.

• I retraced it to a new piece of paper then added 1cm seam allowance all around the shape. I also added other information on the pattern piece.

• I  then cut it out in calico (2x). I tried straight grain first then bias grain to see which works better.

• Then I sew the seams together with 1cm seam allowance leaving a space for me to be able to bag it out.

• I trimmed the seams in half to reduce bulk then I bag it out.

• I topstitch along the edge where I left the space/gap to close the seam.

• I then pressed it.

I then arrange them where I want them on the shoulders.
That's another toile done! Thanks for reading ^_^