Jia Li dress lay plan...

As part of my brief task, I have to do a lay plan for one of my garment to pass. Lay plan is very important because it tells you how to save fabric excess and money. I have done a lay plan before so I will provide you a link to that post if you'd like to know how the process goes. It was a lay plan for my final garment last year. Thank you for reading :)

Curve binding PROBLEMO!!

So the curve part where I attatch the bias binding doesn't lay flat and it doesn't look very attrative on the dress so I'm going to try and resolve this problem.

• First I unpicked the bias binding around where the curve is (just on one side).
• Then I did a running stitch around the curve.
• I then pulled the thread slightly to tighten it and avoid creating a gather.
• I then the press the fibres back in place with my fingers so that it wont create bumps or creases when I sew the binding back in place.
• Then I press it with the iron and then sew the bingding back in place making sure that the thread isn't visible.

(Right side is the one that sticks out and the left side is the one that lays flat)

That's the method that I've learnt to solve this problem. Until next time ^_^

Finally done with my first dress.

I feel so happy and relived now that I have finished my first dress out of three. Tomorrow I will be finishing off bits and piece for my toile diary then I will move on to lay planning one of my garment. If I have time I will possibly start to toile my next dress which is the Jin Youzhi dress. That's all I wanted to say really. I'll update you all soon ^_^

Toiling Jia Li Dress....

Here's how I made the toile for my first dress. I won't be showing you about how I created the pattern because it'll be just too boring so here's how it went.

• I cut out all the pattens in calico.

• Then I took the centre front panel and one of the front side panel and I sew them together with 1.5cm seam allowance. I did the same on the other side.

• Then I knotch the curve seam to give ease and then I pressed it open.

• I then moved onto the back panels, I sew the back side panel and centre back panel together with 1.5cm seam allowance. I pressed the seams open then did that same on the other side.

• I then sewn in the concealed zip before sewing the centre back together with 1.5cm seam allowance.

• Then I sewn the shoulder seam together with 1.5cm seam allowance and press the seam open. I did the same on the other side.

• Then I sewn the side seams together with 1.5cm seam allowance and press it open. I did the same on the other side.

• I then fitted the dress on the mannequin and decided how bid the cut out circle is going to be on the stomach. I drew out the shape that I wanted on one half, once I was happy with the shape I cut it out half way and folded it to the other side to get the same shape. (clever huh ^_^)

• Then I bias bind the edges. You can buy bias binding that are already made in fabric shops but I didn't have any so I had created my own bias binding from calico.

• The bias binding wasn't laying flat where it curves on the back side panel because the binding is a little thick in width so I have to resolve this problem by reducing the with of the binding.

• I then attach facings on the neck and on one of the arm because it's a toile I don't need to add facings on both arm.

Creating the shoulder feature.

• I drew out the shape that I want on paper, then once I'm satisfied with the shape I cut it out.

• I retraced it to a new piece of paper then added 1cm seam allowance all around the shape. I also added other information on the pattern piece.

• I  then cut it out in calico (2x). I tried straight grain first then bias grain to see which works better.

• Then I sew the seams together with 1cm seam allowance leaving a space for me to be able to bag it out.

• I trimmed the seams in half to reduce bulk then I bag it out.

• I topstitch along the edge where I left the space/gap to close the seam.

• I then pressed it.

I then arrange them where I want them on the shoulders.
That's another toile done! Thanks for reading ^_^

Portfolio Time...

I just want to update on on what I've done today. I didn't get to sew or continue toiling because of my portfolio work. I was concertating on my portfolio because I have an interview on wednesday and my portfolio wasn't ready. My tutors had a look at my porfolio and gave me some advice so that my portfolio will look good for my interview. I have bits and piece here and there to do but nothing much. I am actually quite nervous for this interview but ir'll be fine :) Wish me luck!!

Fitted Sleeves, vent & button fastening...

Before creating a new fitted sleeve pattern for my coat I had a look at different types of sleeves that fits into what I want and what looks better for my michiko coat.

I have decided that semi-fitted sleeves would look nice and is quite unique because it has a dart at the back to add a little edge to it.

Here is a step by step guide on how I created the new sleeves (skipping the patterning bit because it might be a little boring ^_^)

• First I created the pattern based on the pattern cutting book that I looked at.

•  I unpicked one of the sleeves off so that I can sew in the new fitted sleeves later.

•  I then cut out the pattern in calico.

•  Then I sewn in the darts then pressed it on the irons.

•  I then sew the seams together with 1.5cm seam allowance.

•  I then fitted the sleeves to a model to see if it's alright and the size fits the model right.

•  Once I'm happy with the size, I then attached the sleeve on the coat with 1.5cm seam allowance.

•  I then fit the coat on a model once again, I thought that the sleeve is still a little loose so I have taken it in a little bit more with pins. Don't worry the models' arm are still able to get through because I'll put a vent on it.

•  I outlined the pins that I have pinned on the sleeve then sewn along it. I then unpicked the old stitches.

•  I then added in the new seam allowance, trimmed off the excess fabric and then added on the new adaptations on the pattern.

 I have decided to have an exposed zip vent fastening on the sleeve for the models' arm to be able to fit in. I thought that this vent fasting will be unique and diverse to the traditional and simple vent.

I hae also added the button hole on the coat. I have decided to only have 3 buttons on my coat so that when the model walks down the catwalk the audience will be able to see the trousers underneath the coat.

Here is what I have done on the coat so far,

 (zip vent fastening)

 (3 button holes)

Sleeves...

So here is what I have done so far with my Michiko coat. I have to now make the sleeves more fitted because the loose sleeves that the coat has now doesn't really suit so I have to create a new pattern for a fitted sleeves.

I have put fitted the coat on a mannequin and to a model so that I can be able to tell if it's the right fit or not.

loose sleeves

 fitted sleeves

I'll be posting the step by step guide on how I created the new fitted sleeves  on my next blog post. Thanks for reading!! ^_^