Patterning Chen Trouser ....

This week I have started to toile the Chen trouser that goes with my Michiko coat. Here's what I have done so far.

1.       I traced off a trouser block

2.       Because I want the trouser leg to be fitted, I had to take it in a little. I had to measure the mannequins knee (34cm) and heel/ankle (29.5cm) length. I measured the original length of the trouser block ankle (front and back) and then subtracted the mannequin ankle length and divided it by four (44.8-29.5-15.3 divided by 4 = 3.8) I did the same for the knee and then I took the measurement out on the pattern.

3.       I lowered the waist by 6cm (front and back) because I want the waistband to be thick and high.

4.       Once I drew all my design lines I traced it off. Then in order to be able to add the panels on the sides, I had to sample where it curves so that it would match when I sewed it properly.

5.       I traced the trouser pattern up to the knee (front and back) and added the 1.5cm seam allowance all around.

6.       I cut it out in calico, sewed the darts in and sewed the side seams together with 1.5cm SA

7.       Pressed seams open.

8.       I drew in where the panel would go.

9.       Because the side of the trouser is a little bit baggy, I put it onto the mannequin and fitted it by pinning on the sides.

10.   I cut off the excess fabric and adapted the pattern. I then added the SA on the pattern.

11.   I also took the crotch in a little because it was too baggy.

12.   I cut out the pattern and adapted where the curve of the side panel would be.

13.   I cut out the panel and added the SA along the edges. I did the same on each of the pattern pieces.